Wednesday, January 23, 2008

I'm in Senegal! And you'll have to excuse the typing mistakes if I make any because I'm using a French keyboard. We arrived safely in Dakar after a bumpy flight from New York and went to Yoff, a suburb, to crash at a really nice hotel. Dave and I and some friends went up to the terrace on the roof to take in the view, looked down in the street, and saw a herd of cattle passing by! It looked like they didn't have anyone guiding them, but they plodded on toward the main road and seemed to do okay. It's very dusty here and pretty hot, maybe in the 70s or 80s, which is a refreshing change from the winter weather. The next day we had orientation at a woman's house who had worked with our program for 10 years. She made the traditional national dish, thieboujinn (no idea how to spell it), which is fish and rice in a spicy red curry sauce. It's absolutely delicious, and apparently you eat it every day for lunch so that should be fun, at least until I get tired of rice. Yesterday we were dropped off at our host families, and I love mine! They're a brother and a sister who live together and neither of them are married. My host sister/mother is Mantou, and she looks a lot like Helena Bonham Carter. She's awesome, quick smile and an easy manner. Parick is my host brother. He's in his mid 30s and she's a bit older. He's hip and funky but old enough to be steady and to really enjoy teaching Wolof to us. Which brings me to my next bit of news, that I'm living with another American student as well! Her name is Emily and she goes to Michigan. We share a room and we both go to WARC for school. We stayed up until 1 am last night talking and it turns out that we're very similar people, both intellectually and socially, except that she's doing neuroscience while I have no head for chemistry. Anyway, it's awesome to be speaking French all the time again and I'm trying to start learning a bit of Wolof. I only know a couple phrases so far. Our three program assistants and the program director have been very supportive and welcoming. I feel very fortunate to be in such a supportive community. There's much more emphasis here on dignity, respect, and welcoming each other than there is in the States. Every time you see someone, even if you just saw them minutes before - or even if you're already in conversation with them - you ask them how they're doing and how their families are. The point is that you're acknowledging and respecting them as a human being. It's something that you can give to each other and nurture no matter how rich or poor you are. I feel like we've left this behind in the states - if we ever had it at all - and its something that feels important for me to retain and bring home. How, I have no idea. And I'm sure this is just one of what will be many cultural insights in the next few months. All my stuff and logistics are working out fine. I even used my first African-style toilet the other day and it wasnt too bad. The one in my house is a regular bowl, fortunately. My family's pretty well off, solidly middle class, in that they have a nice well-furnished house and a TV and a good bathroom. It's a great time to be on the continent, since it's the middle of the African Cup. We watched two soccer games yesterday, which was a good ice-breaker with my other host brother, Prince. I didn't mention him earlier because he's not a permanent resident in the house. He's a nephew from the Casamance, down south, and he came up to Dakar to try out for a club basketball team. If he gets in, he'll move here permanently, but for now, he's going back to Ziguinchor this weekend. Today is my first day at WARC, the research center where we'll hold our classes, and I'm in their computer lab. Once everyone arrives we're going to take a ferry to Gorée Island, just off the coast of the Cap Vert Peninsula (where Dakar is). It's the island that served as a launching point and as an auction site for the slave trade. Should be a fairly heavy visit, à la the Holocaust museum, and we're writing our first paper on our trip. I think that's all the news for now. I haven't seen Dave yet since we dropped him off at his host family, but we've both been doing great. Love you all, à bientot!

12 comments:

Unknown said...

Hi, Becca! It's great to hear your voice, and start to hear about you being there. Please send our best to Mantou and Patrick. When people ask, you can say your family is fine. We are all healthy and busy. Bubbie, you probably know by now, is back in the hospital because of her back pain and her weakness. She may be having a procedure soon to try to fix the fracture, which would alleviate a lot of the pain. We'll keep you posted.

It's still in the 20's and 30's during the day here, so 70's or 80's sounds quite warm.

I'll be leading a service this weekend, chanting the Ten Commandments. Mom's been busy preparing to teach tonight. Naomi's got Celtics tickets for this Friday night, and Jocey has discovered that she loves NYTimes.com!

We love you very much,
Dad

Unknown said...

Hi Rebecca! It's so wonderful to hear how you are settling in. Please thank Mantou and Patrick for us for being your Senegalese family. It's good to know you are with such nice people. Emily sounds great. How nice to have her company and friendship!

I'm off to visit Bubbie in just a little bit. Dad printed out your postings for her. She'll love hearing your news. Thank you for sharing your insights about dignity and respect. We will learn from what you learn. The other bit of family news is that our new sofas for the basement arrived yesterday. They are very cozy! Naomi disappeared down to the basement right after school and didn't fully emerge until bedtime! It's like having a second family room.

We'll look forward to hearing about your visit to Goree Island. I trust your heart will hold what it needs to understand about that time.

Much love to you, and to Dave,

Mom

Unknown said...

You write beautifully and it is wonderful to read about your experiences. Your enthusiasm shines through everything and makes me want to come join you right away. I misssssssss youuu!

Unknown said...

Happy 21st birthday! I can't think of a more right place for you to be marking this transitional birthday. Our love is with you today and every day, wherever your heart leads you.

Love and hugs, mom

The Farb said...

happy bday, what type of stuff do they have planned for you?

naomi said...

HEY SIS!
first off i'd like to say happy 21st, and i hope you get to celebrate it in some cool way there. as for us, dad wants to have a birthday party for you...even though you're not here. keep the spirit up i guess? we'll be thinking of you.

sounds like it's a really amazing trip so far. im glad you got there safe. your host family sounds great! it's nice you found so much in common with Emily. she seems like a cool girl, if she's like you :] ooh and i also want to hear more about the FOOD. sounds sooo good.

i think the most exciting thing that's happened around here is the new COUCHESSSS!! they are a.w.e.s.o.m.e. we have a 3 seater couch, a love seat, and a chair. but they are HUGE and sooo comfortable. if i could i would sleep down there every night. we also have the coffee table in the middle of the 3 couches, and a matching stand next to the love seat. aaand we have the tall cafe table and spinny chairs, which are PERFECT for a game of hearts. its so nice, because the way we set everything up, the basement feels more like a chill living room than a party place, which is a good change in the mood/tone of the room. we made the couches so you could comfortably watch tv, but you don't feel like its all pointed towards the tv.

to fill you in on the weekend, mom and ruth (who is flying in tonight) are being with bubbie on friday. im having a bunch of my girlfriends over for a sort of "girls nite" since none of us have had one in a while. you know how girls nites are awesome haha. so dad is going to hang around the house because we "shouldn't be left alone" (understandable). jocey is hanging around here this weekend, seeing her friends, etc. then on saturday im going with justin to the winter porformance of joanne's, which is going to be fantastic, so i've heard.

stay safe, stay happy, love ya love ya

p.s. my celtics game didnt work out, just to correct dad's last post. im going with hanni and some other cfs people another time, i think.

KBYE <33

Unknown said...

Becca,
Happy 21. We thrilled you're there, and we're having a party for you here.
Love you!
Dad

Ron said...

Rebecca,
This is test #2 to leave a comment on your website.
This is just a test.
Ron

Ron said...

Hi Rebecca,
It seems that my test #2 actually worked, so now Janet and I will try a real message:
HAPPY BIRTHDAY! How amazing to spend this very special birthday half a world away. We hope you, Dave, and your new family celebrated this one-and-only 21st birthday.
We Love You and wish you many, many more....
Ron & Janet

Marnie said...

Hi Becca,
Happy 21st birthday! The significance of your landmark year must feel different in a Muslim country.

Enjoy your experiences to the fullest. We will be following your blog.

Marnie

hanoldt said...

Hi, Becca - Sounds like a fun start to the semester. I hope the curry sauce makes the thieboudienne fresh and tasty, even if you get it every day; and I hope you'll show us how make it when you get back.

Happy exploring!

Dennis said...

Happy Birthday old timer! On your birthday it was probably -10 F. Feeling better? You are telling a fabulous story and living out loud. Keep it up.